BA Falcon Instrument Cluster EEPROM Programming

[pickle7]

Hi All,

I've been looking trying to reprogram ever since I started a SZ to DZ conversion. Basically I purchased a cheap BA Fairlane GHIA with 750K and are putting all these great features into my BA XR6.

I'm at a point of no return if I continue, now contenplating Memory Seats, Mirrors, Cluster, Audio AMP, Revers Sensors ect next which means wiring loom changes from the dash back.

I've been using OBD/CAN and have managed to Programme HIM SZ/DZ & Cluster but only TC/SB/PMode. This has taken a week to figure out. I had a Snapon Scan tool but now can do all this and more with a ELM327 and combination of written sw and hyperterm for programming.

Are we saying no other cluster changes can be done this way via CAN?

I have the skill but not the time and running out of patients to pull out the soldering iron on this one. Just need a push in the right direction.

I Started this about 12 months ago and read countless threads and this seem's to be the only active one.
I'm About to see what's involved in changing the seat base over.

Thanks in Advance

[TazzI]

I've been using OBD/CAN and have managed to Programme HIM SZ/DZ & Cluster but only TC/SB/PMode. This has taken a week to figure out. I had a Snapon Scan tool but now can do all this and more with a ELM327 and combination of written sw and hyperterm for programming.

Are we saying no other cluster changes can be done this way via CAN?

I have the skill but not the time and running out of patients to pull out the soldering iron on this one. Just need a push in the right direction.

I Started this about 12 months ago and read countless threads and this seem's to be the only active one.
I'm About to see what's involved in changing the seat base over.

Sooo your asking to help? Or asking if theres more info? or what? Little lost in what your asking here!

Theres not "heaps" of things that can be modified in the cluster. Well, thats useful for when refitting into a new vehicle. You named the major ones there except for fuel settings and odometer.

What other cluster changes are you after? Telltale symbols? speedo compression ratio? ect

Everything can be done over CAN, just a matter of understanding the required commands, bit meanings and which parameters are required for which vehicles!

[Robertau]

Hi All,

I've been looking trying to reprogram ever since I started a SZ to DZ conversion. Basically I purchased a cheap BA Fairlane GHIA with 750K and are putting all these great features into my BA XR6.

I'm at a point of no return if I continue, now contenplating Memory Seats, Mirrors, Cluster, Audio AMP, Revers Sensors ect next which means wiring loom changes from the dash back.

I've been using OBD/CAN and have managed to Programme HIM SZ/DZ & Cluster but only TC/SB/PMode. This has taken a week to figure out. I had a Snapon Scan tool but now can do all this and more with a ELM327 and combination of written sw and hyperterm for programming.

Are we saying no other cluster changes can be done this way via CAN?

I have the skill but not the time and running out of patients to pull out the soldering iron on this one. Just need a push in the right direction.


I Started this about 12 months ago and read countless threads and this seem's to be the only active one.
I'm About to see what's involved in changing the seat base over.

Thanks in Advance

I've been doing the same thing with my baxr6t, got most of the parts i require to do seat, DZ, electro chromatic mirror (LTD). memory seat base, ICC. The only thing i am missing is the Memory mirrors but can change that anytime.
Just looking for a weekends motivation to change it all over. then a trip to the local auto shop that are not such thieves

I am Using BF side/main body looms as there the same as BA (BF dash and engine bay looms are different.)

Biggest problem i see with the fairlane looms is not so much the little extra length around the back seat, but the differences in how some of the wires connect to the boot for number plate lights etc etc. SWB had the lights and plate on the boot lid LWB on the bumper, but I'm sure you have read lukisons thread on ford mods 100's of times like me.


LHS main body loom is easy to change the hardest part is the connector up behind the dash that runs through to the door. RHS loom is best changed while the dash is out to make life easier.

Why do you want to change the cluster to the fairlane one? Personally think the xr clusters are better looks wise with the 260km speedo and they can be found for hi-series.

Having a parts car there to take parts from is the way to go, sometimes wish i'd gone that way instead of just finding the part i need.

Are you putting your seats on the fairlane bases? to change them over is 4 bolts holding them to the bases.

Robert

[pickle7]

I've been doing the same thing with my baxr6t, got most of the parts i require to do seat, DZ, electro chromatic mirror (LTD). memory seat base, ICC. The only thing i am missing is the Memory mirrors but can change that anytime.
Just looking for a weekends motivation to change it all over. then a trip to the local auto shop that are not such thieves

I am Using BF side/main body looms as there the same as BA (BF dash and engine bay looms are different.)

Biggest problem i see with the fairlane looms is not so much the little extra length around the back seat, but the differences in how some of the wires connect to the boot for number plate lights etc etc. SWB had the lights and plate on the boot lid LWB on the bumper, but I'm sure you have read lukisons thread on ford mods 100's of times like me.

Yes this is why I think it will be the point of no return, a fairmont loom would have been easier. It has reverse sensors which is another thing I want to add.

LHS main body loom is easy to change the hardest part is the connector up behind the dash that runs through to the door. RHS loom is best changed while the dash is out to make life easier.

Yes easier when I had the Dash out but did the LHF Door when it was back in I found it easiest to pull the connector through the body between the door jam and then disconnect.

Why do you want to change the cluster to the fairlane one? Personally think the xr clusters are better looks wise with the 260km speedo and they can be found for hi-series.

OK So you can get a XR6 Hi Series? - Maybe that's easier - Was doing it because everything else is Fairlane, even changed the BCM's so I could the Analogue clock working (Gauges would look better I know). Cluster has the Doors Open not sure what else was different. I'm also a bit old to take it past 200 these days

Having a parts car there to take parts from is the way to go, sometimes wish i'd gone that way instead of just finding the part i need.

Are you putting your seats on the fairlane bases? to change them over is 4 bolts holding them to the bases.

Robert

Wreckers are many hours drives so this looked like a good option to buy the car as it was cheap (turns out its missing some of the good bits I wanted). The XR6 already had a broken heater core so I knew it was a dash out job and thought it a good idea to do a Climate control swap why im at it. It also hadnt occured to me someone had a write up so everything I did when I started 12 months ago was using the Manuals. Took a bit of effort and even ended up swapping the dash wiring looms for the temp sensor as the fairlane dash was a little average.

It also Turns out the RHS actuator was faulty, so its dash out again sometime, probably when I'm ready to go all out.

Was looking at doing the bases to make Memory seats but not 100% sure how I can do this and keep the XR6 seats. Also its a loom change that is also difficult I believe.

[Robertau]

What programmers are you's using? USB or parralell?

Parts still coming in, I have sitting on my bench a willem parallel programmer (thought it was parallel and usb but the usb port is only for powering the board), but all good had a old desktop PC laying around that had the right Gear.
have tested the Programmer, am able to Flash the cluster dumps from here to a RANDOM i2c EEPROM ((24c64) i know this will NOT work on the Cluster) i had laying around.

Programmer I'm using



Bench cluster is here, just need to get my shit together and remove the EEPROM from the board, slightly worried about that such small spacings I'm used to through hole not SMD's, infact i have never even touched SMD ..

is.Pin 1 On the eeprom the Bottom left of the chip Refering to the Picture i have a few posts back? referring to data sheets it is of the assumed that that is the location. cant see any marks on the Chip to show.

Still waiting on some DIP8 EEPROM chips to with it all but they should be here in the next week or 2.

will post up info and dump of the cluster once i have it removed and read, hopefully over the weekend.

TIA

Robert

[Robertau]

Why do you want to change the cluster to the fairlane one? Personally think the xr clusters are better looks wise with the 260km speedo and they can be found for hi-series.

OK So you can get a XR6 Hi Series? - Maybe that's easier - Was doing it because everything else is Fairlane, even changed the BCM's so I could the Analogue clock working (Gauges would look better I know). Cluster has the Doors Open not sure what else was different. I'm also a bit old to take it past 200 these days

.

Yes you sure can, i have one right now , if i come across another one on ebay ill share the link to you.
BF ones can be fitted but require some reprogramming of the Traction/dynamic stability control, and not sure but think it required addition of a LED and transistor there as well, It also needed reprogramming of the ABS\brake fail settings as BF got that info VIA can BA didnt.


NOTE
I may pull a dump on this not sure yet see how things go with my "test" cluster.

I'm not far behind you age wise, and your only as old as you feel.
i have only ever seen the 200 once that was enough for me.

Are you putting your seats on the fairlane bases? to change them over is 4 bolts holding them to the bases.

Was looking at doing the bases to make Memory seats but not 100% sure how I can do this and keep the XR6 seats. Also its a loom change that is also difficult I believe.

Once the bases are out of the car there is 4 bolts that hold the seat to the base taking these off you should have no trouble changing the seats and bases over to the better bases, 99% sure they all mount to the base the same.

Biggest pain with the RHS loom is the bit that runs back up the Trans tunnel to pick up the hand brake, shifter, and the Airbag module.

Depending on how keen you are you could probably get away with removing the pins and wires and connectors from the fairlane Looms and pinning them into the right locations in your looms, although that could turn out to be a bit of a PITA too.

Theres some really good info on the Ba falcon over on the ford forums with wiring diagrams connector views dont know if you have found or seen any of it.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v ... oduleid=69

Robert

[TazzI]

Go on! You know you wanna!

Its not hard to get the eeprom off. I can happily give you some tips for removing easily as I did a couple pages back.

[Robertau]

Go on! You know you wanna!

Its not hard to get the eeprom off. I can happily give you some tips for removing easily as I did a couple pages back.

Well i do wanna, will have a play with the test one first, would like to set the Km to match mine when i install it.
I'm looking into getting one of those Hot air stations that was put up here a few pages back.

Still a few tips wont go astray, lots of solder and flux would be one, then clean up, i dont have wick but i do have a sucker station.

With the Test cluster i have i'm thinking ribbon cable to the dip socket, cluster can then still be in its housings and have easy access to the Rom

i'd be curious if you could flash its Bin to a fairlane one and swap faces over so everything matches up.

[Rerouter]

as this is smd, you generally dont need much solder, and you want to make sure the flux you are using is non-corrosive,

equally you may want to hold back on the sucker station for anything but through hole, most of the surrounding smd caps and resistors are small enough to get vacuumed up by a desolder station,

as far as reading in circuit goes, just a reminder, that if the micro has a crystal, you are going to want to short the 2 pins together before reading or writing, to hold all the micros I/O in a high impedance reset state,


And for the ribbon cable idea, strip back about 4mm, cut all but 1 strand, slide the insulation back up so you have 2mm, then solder this single thread and use hot glue to tack it to the board a few cm away as stress relief i recently had to do a tssop package incircuit with breakout wires, and i can tell you, having to deal with only a single strand makes it much easier,

[pickle7]

as this is smd, you generally dont need much solder, and you want to make sure the flux you are using is non-corrosive,

So if this is the IC we need. Piece of cake, I'm a certified in SMD soldering. Just need the basic tools, soldering iron, flux, solder and something like tweezers or just flick it with a tooth pick.