Interior Modifications
BA/BF ICC (Radio) Mods and Hacking
by TazzI » Sat Apr 09, 2016 4:57 pm
Well.. I think its the trailer harness.. I cant see any other reason for this 8pin plug with reverse wire going to it other then for trailer, might need to take a picture of it!
by TazzI » Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:08 pm
Soo.. the trailer plug..
And my proto 3D printed plug...
It fits!.
Just got to extend the top so it clips into the socket, and also extend the back and thats the plugs sorted!
Will have to do until I can find the proper mating plug
And my proto 3D printed plug...
It fits!.
Just got to extend the top so it clips into the socket, and also extend the back and thats the plugs sorted!
Will have to do until I can find the proper mating plug
by TazzI » Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:10 pm
interference, interference interference... 
Iv got some much connected on up behind the dash that I "think" somethings causing interference over aux.
Whats there at the moment includes.....
DVD player
Apple TV
Navigation module (Audio connects through second aux plug)
Bluetooth audio module
Video box (setups the correct video signals)
Volts gauge
USB charging outlets
And last but not least, standard aux (Third aux plug)
The bluetooth integration is working without any dramas so the aux connections seem fine, but the navigation implementation Iv made up has the sound veeeeeeery quiet and is a bit "rusky" with any noise that comes through.
I thought it may be the signal was bad, but if it was, the video on the screen would be distorted and failing but that doesnt appear to be an issue. Infact, the video looks absolutely mint!. Looks like something it should have had from factory.
Iv read up on people finding the aux really quiet although I have not found it like that at all. I used my own aux wiring and seems to be fine with a direct connection and also through the bluetooth connection.
But since theres such limited room behind the dash, I think I have my nav setup wrapped around in power lines (I think!) which might be causing interference?
I tested on the TV before and the sound came out fine, I guess Ill need to double check.., or disconnect everything and see if that helps.
I also noticed at full volume on the headunit, and zero volume on the iphone, you can hear a light "click" or slight interference sound, I only hear it when under those conditions, as soon as the headunit it put back to something like 25 and iphone volume is still zero, you no longer hear any sound. But with further research, looks like other have come across similar effects with aux on iphones or while charging. Looks like a good remedy for that is a aux filter to clear out any rubbish and possibly a pre-amplifier setup to give the aux a bit of a boost. Adding a filter can slightly quieten the audio through aux which is why its good to be coupled with a pre-amplifier.
Starting with the aux filter, these are nothing tooooo special to do, just a couple transformers wired inbetween audio lines to filter the extreme high and low bands. Ill chuck up a simple schematic later once I get it all up in eagle pcb design.
But the pre-amplifier audio booster, now thats where things begin to get a bit more tricky. Theres sooooo much that goes into these, the different configurations, gain selections, input voltages, bias ect. Iv ordered some parts which will hopefully come by end of week... really nifty devices.. just seems any decent IC's are a bit on the pricey side (As expected).
Iv got some much connected on up behind the dash that I "think" somethings causing interference over aux.
Whats there at the moment includes.....
DVD player
Apple TV
Navigation module (Audio connects through second aux plug)
Bluetooth audio module
Video box (setups the correct video signals)
Volts gauge
USB charging outlets
And last but not least, standard aux (Third aux plug)
The bluetooth integration is working without any dramas so the aux connections seem fine, but the navigation implementation Iv made up has the sound veeeeeeery quiet and is a bit "rusky" with any noise that comes through.
I thought it may be the signal was bad, but if it was, the video on the screen would be distorted and failing but that doesnt appear to be an issue. Infact, the video looks absolutely mint!. Looks like something it should have had from factory.
Iv read up on people finding the aux really quiet although I have not found it like that at all. I used my own aux wiring and seems to be fine with a direct connection and also through the bluetooth connection.
But since theres such limited room behind the dash, I think I have my nav setup wrapped around in power lines (I think!) which might be causing interference?
I tested on the TV before and the sound came out fine, I guess Ill need to double check.., or disconnect everything and see if that helps.
I also noticed at full volume on the headunit, and zero volume on the iphone, you can hear a light "click" or slight interference sound, I only hear it when under those conditions, as soon as the headunit it put back to something like 25 and iphone volume is still zero, you no longer hear any sound. But with further research, looks like other have come across similar effects with aux on iphones or while charging. Looks like a good remedy for that is a aux filter to clear out any rubbish and possibly a pre-amplifier setup to give the aux a bit of a boost. Adding a filter can slightly quieten the audio through aux which is why its good to be coupled with a pre-amplifier.
Starting with the aux filter, these are nothing tooooo special to do, just a couple transformers wired inbetween audio lines to filter the extreme high and low bands. Ill chuck up a simple schematic later once I get it all up in eagle pcb design.
But the pre-amplifier audio booster, now thats where things begin to get a bit more tricky. Theres sooooo much that goes into these, the different configurations, gain selections, input voltages, bias ect. Iv ordered some parts which will hopefully come by end of week... really nifty devices.. just seems any decent IC's are a bit on the pricey side (As expected).
by jezzab » Thu Apr 21, 2016 7:47 am
The two transformer one is called a ground loop isolator. It does muddy the sound some what if you like it crystal clear and it can screw with the phasing. The other part is a op-amp buffer. Been playing with this recently. Tell me how you go
Daily Ute - 2009 Holden VE SSV Ute Single Turbo (IQ, E3 Cluster, EDI) - 586rwhp
Drag Ute - 2002 Holden VU SS Twin Turbo - 1010rwhp [SOLD]
All VE/VF Module reprogramming. Remote programming with flash box
http://www.facebook.com/jsbperformance
Drag Ute - 2002 Holden VU SS Twin Turbo - 1010rwhp [SOLD]
All VE/VF Module reprogramming. Remote programming with flash box
http://www.facebook.com/jsbperformance
by TazzI » Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:45 pm
jezzab wrote:The two transformer one is called a ground loop isolator. It does muddy the sound some what if you like it crystal clear and it can screw with the phasing. The other part is a op-amp buffer. Been playing with this recently. Tell me how you go
Thats the one
Looks like the effect of the ground loop isolator depends on the transformers used.. so might be a bit of trial and error there.. plus quality of the build seems to be a biggy with sound related things.
Still looking into the op amp... seems to be a fair bit of science behind it all.. have been hoping to stumble across a well refined configuration with an op amp chip but seems to be a million different configurations!
Also found the cause of the interference..... It occurs when more then one Aux device is plugged in and powered up
The bluetooth aux was causing massive interference to the nav aux. Looked like the speaker lines were tied to ground from the bluetooth.. maybe a noise cancellation kinda thing? Disconnect bluetooth and its happy days again!
I reeeeeeally dont want to use a manual switch to swap between the two...
Hmmm... maybe its time to get a bit more adventurous and implement a micro to control a relay which can automatically switch between the different modules.
I guess by default it can be set for the bluetooth, and when nav is enabled, it will detect the command and swap the right and left speaker lines to nav.
by TazzI » Wed May 04, 2016 11:08 pm
Quick pic of navigation up and running 
Not the best pic of it at night time, but will grab a video tomorrow.
*Edit - Updated with a better daytime picture
Not the best pic of it at night time, but will grab a video tomorrow.
*Edit - Updated with a better daytime picture
by TazzI » Sun May 15, 2016 7:27 pm
Spent some solid hours playing with the ICC settings... and there is literally... literally.. nothing interesting in them. 
Figured there might be different logos stored in them, or a different trip info that could display on screen or just anything.. but.. so far theres absolutely nothing. Done a few hundred alterations without finding anything, all major 'bits' have been attempted in all available memory locations.
The only thing I could change, was to turn the time on and off on the ICC. Nothing else changes under any circumstance.
I also got a second hand unit to security link to the car using a little flash box I put together, so it can be done no dramas without Ford or any other scantools.
Looks like Iv hit the end of the rope for the BA/BF ICC's!.. Thinking its time to hit the instrument clusters or.. maybe FG headunits.
Figured there might be different logos stored in them, or a different trip info that could display on screen or just anything.. but.. so far theres absolutely nothing. Done a few hundred alterations without finding anything, all major 'bits' have been attempted in all available memory locations.
The only thing I could change, was to turn the time on and off on the ICC. Nothing else changes under any circumstance.
I also got a second hand unit to security link to the car using a little flash box I put together, so it can be done no dramas without Ford or any other scantools.
Looks like Iv hit the end of the rope for the BA/BF ICC's!.. Thinking its time to hit the instrument clusters or.. maybe FG headunits.
by Robertau » Sun May 15, 2016 7:46 pm
TazzI wrote:Spent some solid hours playing with the ICC settings... and there is literally... literally.. nothing interesting in them.
Figured there might be different logos stored in them, or a different trip info that could display on screen or just anything.. but.. so far theres absolutely nothing. Done a few hundred alterations without finding anything, all major 'bits' have been attempted in all available memory locations.
The only thing I could change, was to turn the time on and off on the ICC. Nothing else changes under any circumstance.
I also got a second hand unit to security link to the car using a little flash box I put together, so it can be done no dramas without Ford or any other scantools.
Looks like Iv hit the end of the rope for the BA/BF ICC's!.. Thinking its time to hit the instrument clusters or.. maybe FG headunits.
Anymore info on security linking and doing the clock settings?
FG clusters sound interesting with the security, franki was playing with trying to get one into a BA if i recall correctly
- Robertau
- Starting Ignition
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:31 pm
- Has thanked: 0 time
- Been thanked: 0 time
by TazzI » Sun May 15, 2016 8:32 pm
Robertau wrote:Anymore info on security linking and doing the clock settings?
FG clusters sound interesting with the security, franki was playing with trying to get one into a BA if i recall correctly
Turning the clock on and off of the ICC is literally just an on and off switch essentially. Just a really basic DID change. Was hoping there was going to be other little features pop up at least in the same location as the clock but nothing seemed to occur.
As for the security linking, not something Ill be popping up publicly.
Otherwise I imagine there will be a few services which will suddenly popup overnight
Ahhhh beat me to it. Iv been staring at the FG cluster.. and have been wanting to try put it into the BA somehow.
The clusters speak on the same language.. but at different speeds so they are incompatible technically. Dont think Iv read that Frankie was attempting it?
To nut it out... I was thinking....
Record data from my XR8 BA... emulate it to a BA/BF cluster... then decode what each frame is doing to the cluster.
Next, do the same to the FG cluster... then... I can use one of my little 'middle man' modules to grab data from the BA and shove it into the FG at the correct protocol speed.
Shitload of R&D involved, but definitely possible!