Interior Modifications
iq eeprom read problem
28 posts
• Page 2 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
by silversv6 » Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:21 pm
Hi doubledip, I use a willem that I have had 12 years with eprom50. It has always been reliable & able to read all other eproms while on the board but it still won't read the IQ while it is on the board It came with 4 different clips which only look like chinese clips & work good. Stiil searching my IQ, had it in & out of the car about 4 times trying to find locations, but don't have another bin to compare to. Spare time job now, but i'll have to get back into it soon! cheers
by doubledip » Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:46 pm
modified 3m clips I find work the best.. never have to lift a chip in all the common modules.. VZ pim's are different though .,. can get reads but not writes unless lift one leg
by silversv6 » Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:07 pm
Bugger, they are like kids, always one that gives you grief cheers
by boxy8701 » Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:28 pm
Ok here we go, I've taken a few photos of the dismantling of the IQ in case it comes in handy to someone in the future.
To remove the front face there is 4 - T20 screws on the front and 2 - T8 screws on the bottom of the unit.
Next there is 1 - T8 screw on the back face to remove the bottom panel.
To remove the Nav Board there is 2 - T8 screws one side and 1 - T8 screw the other side (red)
Then the video board there is 1 screw each side (Blue)
That should leave you with this.
Here's my set-up hopefully correct.
I have haven't lifted leg 7 yet, is everything else correct up to this point?
To remove the front face there is 4 - T20 screws on the front and 2 - T8 screws on the bottom of the unit.
Next there is 1 - T8 screw on the back face to remove the bottom panel.
To remove the Nav Board there is 2 - T8 screws one side and 1 - T8 screw the other side (red)
Then the video board there is 1 screw each side (Blue)
That should leave you with this.
Here's my set-up hopefully correct.
I have haven't lifted leg 7 yet, is everything else correct up to this point?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
by boxy8701 » Wed Dec 03, 2014 9:53 pm
A bit of an update. I managed to get the programmer to read the eeprom from my original head unit, it took a few goes but worked, this means the programmer works, so i ordered a modified 3M test clip as per the advice on here to see if that would help read from the IQ unit. It just arrived but i'm still getting the bus busy error when trying to read the IQ eeprom, so I am going to attempt to lift leg 7 of the eeprom, any advice on how to safely do this, I only have a fairly old 40w soldering iron, and i'm not sure how long i can hold it on the leg for without damaging anything.
by TazzI » Thu Dec 04, 2014 4:24 pm
Well if your getting to read from the original head unit, then that's good progress. It means you know which directly to have the clip on the eeprom and in the programmer to successfully read.
Now, if you can't read from the IQ unit, it might just be a limitation of the programmer, and simply isn't supplying enough power to read from the device while on board.
The problem iv found with lifting a single pin, is that when I go to put the clip onto it, the clip just pushed the leg back down onto the board. That's just my experiece. Someone else here might have a suggestion?
Now, if you can't read from the IQ unit, it might just be a limitation of the programmer, and simply isn't supplying enough power to read from the device while on board.
The problem iv found with lifting a single pin, is that when I go to put the clip onto it, the clip just pushed the leg back down onto the board. That's just my experiece. Someone else here might have a suggestion?
by Rerouter » Thu Dec 04, 2014 7:56 pm
For an eeprom even a 20W iron would do, now i will say first most of my knowledge comes with the expectation that you have fine motor skills, if not, but a $50 chinese hot air rework station and enjoy the easy life,
Ok first up find a nice small jewelers flat head screw driver that you can fit under the the eeprom leg, (pins 8 and 7 makes things much easier) on those pins, like a normal soldering job add some solder to refresh everything and make the later bits easier (but be quick about it, small things with a 40W iron tends to mean the part leaves with the iron, and seriously your solder should contain flux that is less than 5 years old or things will go badly)
Position the flat blade between pin 8 and the pcb, the idea is that you will only have to gently twist the screw driver to lift the pin once the solder is molten, the using de-solder whick (not a sucker!!!) remove the solder to reveal the pin in air, then repeated on pin 7,
Heat the solder from the pad not the pin, it should quickly reflow, wait another full second, then gently lift the pin till it is slightly above level with where it leaves the chip, lift your iron while you get the whick place it on pad 8 and heat on the whick, it should remove the solder and leave pin 8 in mid air,
After you have lifted both pads, get some paper and place it under the pins so when you use your clip they dont make contact again,
I've done stuff like this enough times having to make up switchable hour meter for trucks where i mess with the address lines, and have not broken any pins in this part it.
Ok first up find a nice small jewelers flat head screw driver that you can fit under the the eeprom leg, (pins 8 and 7 makes things much easier) on those pins, like a normal soldering job add some solder to refresh everything and make the later bits easier (but be quick about it, small things with a 40W iron tends to mean the part leaves with the iron, and seriously your solder should contain flux that is less than 5 years old or things will go badly)
Position the flat blade between pin 8 and the pcb, the idea is that you will only have to gently twist the screw driver to lift the pin once the solder is molten, the using de-solder whick (not a sucker!!!) remove the solder to reveal the pin in air, then repeated on pin 7,
Heat the solder from the pad not the pin, it should quickly reflow, wait another full second, then gently lift the pin till it is slightly above level with where it leaves the chip, lift your iron while you get the whick place it on pad 8 and heat on the whick, it should remove the solder and leave pin 8 in mid air,
After you have lifted both pads, get some paper and place it under the pins so when you use your clip they dont make contact again,
I've done stuff like this enough times having to make up switchable hour meter for trucks where i mess with the address lines, and have not broken any pins in this part it.
by LangasLS » Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:01 am
Have you successfully programmed a 24C64 eeprom with this programmer before? If so, ignore this post.
Most simple serial eeprom programming circuits are designed for serial eeproms only (your 93Cxx's etc), not I2C eeproms (24Cxx etc). Id be hazarding a guess your programmer doesn't support I2C eeproms.
.
Most simple serial eeprom programming circuits are designed for serial eeproms only (your 93Cxx's etc), not I2C eeproms (24Cxx etc). Id be hazarding a guess your programmer doesn't support I2C eeproms.
.
by boxy8701 » Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:59 pm
Bad news, its would seem my motor skills were not fine enough. I managed to break pin 8 while lifting pin 7. What are my options now? I guess i need to buy a 24C64 EEPROM and use one of the dumps that have been posted on here to program it, and attempt to replace it on the board. Its just a pain cos this already had the reverse camera and HSV startup etc set up on it. Oh well live and learn.
28 posts
• Page 2 of 3 • 1, 2, 3