Fitting a Reverse Camera to a VE Commodore

[silversv6]

Interesting... I have had an ebay one installed for a couple of years, but after a few freezing nights it stopped working last month.. (still has power so I'm thinking it's toast)..
http://g8gt.blogspot.com/2008/09/backup ... stall.html

Looks fairly unobtrusive when installed and screws in with the existing licenseplate screws

SteveG8, "TOAST" is made from heat. So I would say you now have a 12 volt ice cube!

[ZerOne]

Sorry, been kinda out of it for the week.\
Steve, I love the look of your camera. I have seen similar units around, but I wasnt too sure how it would look fitted.
Seeing yours fitted to the number plate looks great, and you have the added bonus of the IR leds illuminating the back of the car at night time.
(Something that the unit that I am using is a little bit disappointing with).

I will try and get some pictures of the camera fitted, and with the chrome boot lid trim fitted as well.
(With the chrome boot lid trim, you can hardly see the camera).

I used the stock Series I Calais chrome boot trim, but it needed some minor modifications (I.E. bits cut out of it) in order to fit up.



The problem with removing the stock chrome trim is that when you remove it from the car
(Which you need to do to fit this style camera), the double sided tape is destroyed.

I tried fitting new double sided tape, and refitting the chrome strip, however the tape that I have used is too thick, and it is visible with the strip installed.

Here is the image of the reverse camera fitted on the Drivers side number plate lamp.


I used the same sort of trick that silversv6 used in regards to the cameras inbuilt number plate lamp, in that I used a wedge bulb adaptor so as it plugged in to the stock boot wiring loom.


For Series I models (And Pontiac G8 models), there will be no reverse camera wiring loom in the boot, so you will need to run this yourself.

[velj]

Cbz reading the whole thing but it isn't to hard to do, I have a camera from eBay cost 20 bucks and I tell u what the quality of it is amazing its just silly,
I'm currently (almost finished) making a module so u can have front and rear cameras, rear will go on auto when u put it into reverse and front wil turn on when u push a button that's out of the way and hidden!

[Muke]

Ok, I've got a bit of a silly question. I've installed a cheap reverse camera, and apart from it being pretty crap quality (oh well for $20 it was more a test fit first) it is all working. But I'm wanting to change it around a bit. I have an aftermarket headunit so the new HVAC uses the reverse input signal to display the HVAC screen when a button is pressed, or throughputs the camera when in reverse. But I've ripped out the SIC (SV6 atari gauge) and put a monitor in to permanently display the HVAC screen, and now the camera straight to the headunit. But because of this when I press a HVAC button, the camera momentarily appears on the headunit. Or when I use reverse (or pass through it being auto), the monitor goes blank until I press one of the HVAC buttons. Not a big deal, but can be better.
What I wish to do is cut the reverse signal wire from the HVAC to the h/u, and just put a signal input directly to the h/u from the car. Am I correct that there is no actual signal wire in the car, but the HVAC is getting that from the GMLAN and converting it? If so, I also assume there's no switch as such on the gear selector either. The only thing I can think of is running a wire all the way from the actual reverse lights themselves. Is this a bad idea? Is there a better way of doing it? Here's a bad pic of where I'm at that may help your understanding.
Thanks for any more help or ideas,
Mark.

2013-03-14-152sm.jpg

[silversv6]

Hi Muke, from what i can understand, It sounds like your camera is only getting powered on with the hvac for a split second when you press the hvac button, hense the black screen. Do you have the camera wires in the correct polarity to the H/U?. Mainly, do you have the + of your camera hooked up to the + from your reverse lights or through the hvac? You defintaly need permanent power when in reverse. I have installed a $17-$18 ebay camera on mine & the pic is good. I have just done another with similar camera & it's good as well. Maybe your H/U is not as compatable as the IQ for that camera. Only a thought.

[Muke]

Cheers Silver,
Nah, it works fine. I ran power for the camera from the smoker's pack plug (acc. power) in the rear. It's the signal wire from the HVAC that I want to change. Normally the camera plugs into the HVAC, the HVAC into the h/u camera input, then it fools the h/u via it's reverse signal input to display the camera if in reverse or the HVAC display temporarily if a HVAC button pressed. As I now have the HVAC display going to the new monitor, and the camera directly to the h/u I no longer need the HVAC to send the reverse signal input to the h/u. But I need a signal to trigger the headunit when in reverse. That's all, just a trigger for the h/u. Then I can tell the HVAC there isn't a camera so it will always and only send the HVAC display to the other monitor. The only reason the HVAC display goes blank is because it thinks its plugged into the h/u and sending the camera display. So I don't want power from the reverse lights, just looking for something as a signal wire. Older cars just have a reverse switch on the gear selector I'd use. Really I was wondering if anyone knew of something to use for that trigger. I'll guess if I get to the trigger wire between the HVAC and h/u and check it's voltage I'll just run a really long wire from the reverse lights (if it's 12v). Was hoping for something easier, and checking I'm not about to do something stupid.

Oh and the camera isn't particularly bad signal. Colour isn't great, but worst of all it isn't adjustable in angle enough and its depth perception is awful. Fine to not run over a kid, but not great for getting close to a wall, especially if it's near the corner and not dead on behind for eg. I'll try to take a pic now as I don't recommend it, and might go for one more like Steve's as it looks more adjustable. I'd get the proper fancy one for my h/u as it does top down views etc - but at $300+, I'll settle for a bit less and 1/15th the price.

I hope that makes some kind of understandable sense. And thanks for the response.

[silversv6]

Yep, I understand & I think your only way for the reverse signal input is from your reverse lights unless you have reverse sensors. I would first hook it up through a test light or such so the light will take the power if it is too much for the h/u, or put a resistor between them that only allows 5 or so volts to start with. Some trigger inputs (remote wire) such as some amps only need 3-5 volts for the remote to turn on. See if you can get any info on your H/U regarding the voltage.

[Muke]

2013-03-21-170sm.jpg

That's the camera. It certainly doesn't point down far enough, that's as far as it goes (and is mashing the wire coming out of the camera as it's in the wrong spot).

2013-03-21-172sm.jpg

As you can see it's an ok picture, but the colour is off. Mind you 5:00pm and overcast doesn't help, but full sunshine isn't much better. Mostly the field of view is my issue with it. The rubbish bin is 1m behind with the wheels in line with the car's wheel tracks. The recycling bin is another metre past that (so about 2.5m), again with wheels in line with the car's on the other side. So it'd work as a rear view camera I suppose, but not a great reversing camera. Each to their own, but I think other people's in this thread are better.

[silversv6]

Muke, where is your camera actually getting power from? The hvac i'm assuming by the sound of it.
Yeh I can see where you are comming from with your view. Mine is a sportwagon & my camera points down enough for me to see the kerb behind & my ass end is about a foot of the kerb before seeing the grass.

[silversv6]

Muke, just another thing. If you still have the camera hooked to the lighter then the cam will be on all the time from as soon as you turn the key on. Is it possible that the cam input is triggered by the cam turning on itself or is there a dedicated trigger input on the H/U?