Fitting a Reverse Camera to a VE Commodore

[Muke]

Mate, now that's why I asked - for some nice thinking. Good idea about that. Last thing I want is to hook the 12v (or 14.4v??) from the lights into what could be expecting 3-5v. Could be a very expensive exercise. The only accessory power I could think for power of are the two plugs that the smoker's pack plugs into. There's one just below the headunit, which I have powering the HVAC and headunit, and the illumination for the HVAC & h/u dimmer, and one behind the centre console bin. That one powers the new monitor and a wire running under the carpet and back seat to the camera. And now the illumination pin for the leds lighting up the HVAC buttons (must have missed those wires when I installed it - which explains the fumbling trying to turn on the demister at night ). Though I did just buy the boot power socket, so I think that's another - but that one may be permanent - I have no idea (it was permanent not accessory in the old's Prado).

So yeah, I can turn the headunit to rear view at any point in time. So you can see that tailgating car that the wing hides.
Might go for your style camera. Looked at that, but wasn't sure it would point in the right area and was wondering about it being off centre. Sounds like it works well and looks nice and neat. I think I can afford $20 to try considering you're happy with it.

[Muke]

Forgot to explain, the HVAC is hooked up to the GMLAN. So I think that's where it gets the info about being in reverse, then it sends a signal for the headunit. I can't see any other way it does it, but there's a mass of wires back there. I don't have info on all of them. It plugs into the stock plug from the stock headunit (non IQ, single CD, no display type). There's only the one plug for that one, which I have the wire breakdown for, but no reverse signal wire.

[Muke]

Just got the good ol' multimeter out and found the reverse signal wire from the HVAC to the h/u. The signal wire is reading 9v. Tested the reverse bulb, and it's reading 11.5v. Well it looks like there isn't anything else up the front of the car to use that is nice and handy, so it seems that is going to have to be it then. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a good manual for the headunit either (apart from a users manual). Would that be safe enough to use then straight from the light? I'm guessing that it should be, but that's pure guesswork based on no actual knowledge. The tiny bit of info on h/u specs says it's rated for 14.4v power, but allowable is 10.8 - 15.1. If it allows that much variation in the power, I'd expect it also allows for some variation in the signal wires too. My concern is with the engine on the light will be 14.4v, not 11.5v.
My other question now is, what if I'm wrong and 14.4v is too much? Would we expect the fuse to go on the h/u (I guess that only covers power, not signal wires), to do some real damage, or just to damage the signal wire circuit? If it is just the reverse signal wire I'd lose, I could just hook the camera up to the other monitor, even though that isn't an option I want to use at all. But it is just a +ve wire, so it must ground through the h/u (ie, not it's own circuit with +ve and -ve).

[silversv6]

Okay, as I can see it, your H/U is not running anything else on the car except sound & camera. (no hvac etc). If so why don't you try this. connect the camera inputs directly to your H/U (as I think you have) Disconect the trigger wire from the hvac to the h/u as the hvac is not being displayed through h/u now. connect camera power supply to reverse lights, then use the same reverse wire to trigger the h/u but with a little voltage regulator or resistor (jaycar dicky smiths) to give you about 9v. That way the camera will not always be on. OOOOOR try this first. diconnect the power supply to camera. turn ignition on till dash lights come on, select reverse then power the cam again & see if it auto triggers the h/u. I'm just trying to think for you!! It's a little harder when your not next to the sucker.

[Muke]

Sweet, that sounds like the way to go. Yes it's just a normal 2-din headunit for sound/cam/nav. It didn't control the HVAC, just a displayed it. A bit pricey so I didn't want to risk hurting it.
I've now tried that with the camera, but no it doesn't auto trigger at all Nice thought. Handy having ciggie lighter power cords for everything, so one fitted perfectly for testing. Cut the plug on another for testing things too, so it's easy to just power up anything 12v and it's fused. I kind of like having it powered to the accessory anyway so I can switch it on whenever. Really handy when towing to keep an eye on the load (not that I put a towbar on this car), or seeing how close those tailgaters really are. But would have been a handy solution.
So yet another trip to that dirty old man at jaycar is on the cards then. Lucky I'm a dirty old man too, so it's not bad. I think he likes seeing me so he can tell his jokes. Just looked through the catalogue and it looks like they have exactly the right regulator, 9v even. Appears this will be the perfect solution.
So thanks heaps for doing that thinking for me (with this insomnia I needed it, as you can tell). Really appreciate the help.

[silversv6]

Not a worry, I hope you get it sorted now. Nothing more frustrating than searching for something that's not there!! I had a similar thing trying to find the video cam input. Got on this forum and another user (shterk) had the wiring diagram & found it, already in the tailgate not under the dash.
See, us dirty old men help each other! cause no one else will....LOL
Oh...don't forget to run a fuse between them, just to be safe 5 amp should be plenty. Let us know how you go.

[Muke]

Well it's amazing what a few hours sleep can do. Got back to the car today and thought about wiring in the voltage adapter, but it didn't really make sense to me why a headunit would want 9v. So I checked the voltage on the handbrake input signal wire as its direct form the car to the h/u - 11.5v. Hmmm, lets check the remote amp turn on signal wire from h/u to amp - 11.5v. Therefore almost certainly if the car did have a reverse signal wire, it and the h/u would both be 11.5v. Ended up just wiring in a fuse holder tapping straight into the reverse lights going all the way to the h/u, used a 2amp fuse (the same as the HVAC so less spares needed). Works perfectly as I wanted, separating the HVAC & h/u. Now to find a speed signal input wire (pulse type).... ah it's been this long without, might just put the interior back into the car for now as it's hasn't been all in since I first pulled the old cluster out. I can always leave the plug for the SIC accessible now if I wish to play with something without touching any trim. Or I could just change the.....

[silversv6]

All good then. Good it will handle 12-14.4v input, better to be safe then sorry. For your speed signal (pulse) input I'm pretty sure you will need one of these.(link below) I believe these are available from holden as they use them for taxi meters. Some of the others on this forum are right up with this sort of stuff, so if you get stuck you could ask them. doubledip or zerone know heaps & are mega helpful so you could always ask one of them. Let us know how you go. Cheers


http://sailesmarketing.com/products/can ... interface/

[doubledip]

got a price on one of them not so long ago and was round the $300 mark..

[Muke]

I was chatting to the guy in the Holden service dept a while ago. He suggested I might be able to tap into the wheel speed sensor. Apparently there's a wire running from the wheel across to the diff that should be relatively easy to get to, and still be a pulse signal there. Not sure if he's correct (he was openly guessing), or if it'd work anyway. For me I suppose it depends how smart my GPS is. Is it comparing # of pulses to the GPS to work it out, then using it when the GPS signal is too weak? Or is it expecting a certain # of pulses per km/h? Can only try it to find out.