So, to get everything, including the HVAC system working when you upgrade to the Colour LCD HVAC/Radio Module you need to do the following.
(This is the bare minimum to get the HVAC system working - I.E. this is the same as the JHP $1900 upgrade).
1) Get your hands on a colour HVAC/Radio main unit and fascia (As per the doco).
2) Set the VIN number for your car on the HVAC/Radio Main unit. (As per the doco).
3) Pull your existing HCE unit out from your existing HVAC airbox, and upload the Dual Zone EEPROM dump to convert your
HCE from a Single Zone Manual Unit, to a Dual Zone Auto Unit.
4) Add 4 resistors to either the wiring loom, or the HCE unit itself, specifically
HCE Connector X2,
Place a 2.7K Resistor between Pin 1 and Pin 2 to bypass the Cabin Ambient Temperature Sensor
Place a 5.6K Resistor between Pin 7 and Pin 8 to bypass the Outside Ambient Temperature Sensor
Place a 2.6K Resistor from Pin 4 to ground to bypass the Sunload Ambient Light Sensor
Place a 2.6K Resistor from Pin 4 to ground to bypass the Sunload Ambient Light Sensor
5) Finally fit and test !!!!
Please Note :
Dual Zone Climate control will function, but the Passenger Temperature will be the same as the Drivers Temperature.
The Passenger Temperature Blend Door is missing for Single Zone Models
Auto Mode will function, however because the HVAC system cannot determine the actual outside and cabin temperatures,
as these will be defaulted to around 23.5*C using the resistors, it will behave like a manual system...
GM Technical Document Discussion
VE Radio / HVAC EEPROM reprogramming information
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by MartinM » Tue Feb 14, 2012 2:31 pm
I will just add that I didnt have any 2K7 resistors or 5K6 resistors so I used 2K2 and 4K7
I see an outside temperature reading of 27 degrees with the 4K7 in place but the system works perfectly so I will leave it as is.
I soldered the resistors to the back of the PCB as it is a bit tight for room on the top side when you try to get the HCM enclosure back together.
Also worth noting is that X2 Pin 1 and 7 are connected directly to ground so all resistors are actually connected to ground at one end (means you can take your pick where you hook them up. I used the big fat GND connector of X1 for two of mine and X2 pins 1 & 7 for the other 2, the picture will probably make more sense......
Have fun
I see an outside temperature reading of 27 degrees with the 4K7 in place but the system works perfectly so I will leave it as is.
I soldered the resistors to the back of the PCB as it is a bit tight for room on the top side when you try to get the HCM enclosure back together.
Also worth noting is that X2 Pin 1 and 7 are connected directly to ground so all resistors are actually connected to ground at one end (means you can take your pick where you hook them up. I used the big fat GND connector of X1 for two of mine and X2 pins 1 & 7 for the other 2, the picture will probably make more sense......
Have fun
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by msenj » Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:56 pm
Well, I discovered today how much it costs to convert from an Omega dash and centre console to a Calais dash and centre console.
Had a nice $830 trip to the Holden dealer to order the following:
Parts required for Dual Zone conversion with the dual zone heater box but without changing the dash:
1 x Dual Zone Sun Load Sensor - 25713063 - $55.00
1 x Ambient Temperature Sensor - 09152245 - $35.00
1 x Interior Temperature Sensor - 92171917 - $12.20
1 x Interior Sensor Duct Hose - 92192336 - $4.20
(There is also an aspirator assembly that goes on the side of the heater box which draws air through the interior sensor and hose - Probably needed for a single zone conversion.)
Programming and swapping the head unit and heater box plus wiring in these parts should give you fully functional dual zone climate control.
If you are, however, utterly crazy (like me), and insist on doing things properly, here additional parts required for changing the dash and centre console to Calais spec:
1 each x Left and Right Instrument Panel Applique Strip - 92170857 & 92170858 - $142.00 & $139.00 respectively*
1 x Instrument Panel Centre Duct - 92163390 - $12.30
1 x Instrument Panel Upper Assembly - 92181989 - $58.00
1 x Grille Assembly Radio - 92218484 - $49.50
1 x Instrument Panel Compartment - 92200591 - $26.00
1 x Instrument Panel Compartment Door - 92170909 - $18.80
1 x Front Floor Console Cover (T-Bar Surround) - 92176910 - $42.50
1 x Cup Holder Assembly Front Floor Console - 92171506 - $35.50
1 x Front Floor Console Cover (Cupholder Rear Surround) - 92171508 - $13.20
1 each x Left and Right Instrument Panel Vent Housing Assembly - 92215167 & 92215168 - $41.00 each.
*In hindsight, I could have ordered the plastic Berlina strips instead of the aluminium Calais strips and saved myself some money.
The only thing I'm missing is the centre console armrest. They're about $150 on eBay so I expect they'll be about a million dollars at the dealer.
Had a nice $830 trip to the Holden dealer to order the following:
Parts required for Dual Zone conversion with the dual zone heater box but without changing the dash:
1 x Dual Zone Sun Load Sensor - 25713063 - $55.00
1 x Ambient Temperature Sensor - 09152245 - $35.00
1 x Interior Temperature Sensor - 92171917 - $12.20
1 x Interior Sensor Duct Hose - 92192336 - $4.20
(There is also an aspirator assembly that goes on the side of the heater box which draws air through the interior sensor and hose - Probably needed for a single zone conversion.)
Programming and swapping the head unit and heater box plus wiring in these parts should give you fully functional dual zone climate control.
If you are, however, utterly crazy (like me), and insist on doing things properly, here additional parts required for changing the dash and centre console to Calais spec:
1 each x Left and Right Instrument Panel Applique Strip - 92170857 & 92170858 - $142.00 & $139.00 respectively*
1 x Instrument Panel Centre Duct - 92163390 - $12.30
1 x Instrument Panel Upper Assembly - 92181989 - $58.00
1 x Grille Assembly Radio - 92218484 - $49.50
1 x Instrument Panel Compartment - 92200591 - $26.00
1 x Instrument Panel Compartment Door - 92170909 - $18.80
1 x Front Floor Console Cover (T-Bar Surround) - 92176910 - $42.50
1 x Cup Holder Assembly Front Floor Console - 92171506 - $35.50
1 x Front Floor Console Cover (Cupholder Rear Surround) - 92171508 - $13.20
1 each x Left and Right Instrument Panel Vent Housing Assembly - 92215167 & 92215168 - $41.00 each.
*In hindsight, I could have ordered the plastic Berlina strips instead of the aluminium Calais strips and saved myself some money.
The only thing I'm missing is the centre console armrest. They're about $150 on eBay so I expect they'll be about a million dollars at the dealer.
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by MartinM » Tue Feb 14, 2012 5:42 pm
$830 ooh that stings.......but you will be the only one driving a dual zone climate controlled Omega with LCD Headunit!
Great information, the sensors are surprisingly cheap at around $100 for the lot, defo worth considering climate as an option for that money, even just for single zone.
Of course not everyone will be lucky enough to get a $10 DZ blower box so a full DZ conversion is still probably cost prohibitive for most people, although when resistors apparently cost $150 each it might be a consideraion
Great information, the sensors are surprisingly cheap at around $100 for the lot, defo worth considering climate as an option for that money, even just for single zone.
Of course not everyone will be lucky enough to get a $10 DZ blower box so a full DZ conversion is still probably cost prohibitive for most people, although when resistors apparently cost $150 each it might be a consideraion
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by ZerOne » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:28 am
$830 may seem like a lot, but you are getting a brand new interior.
The number of trim pieces on my Calais that are marked, worn, have broken clips
Also think of it this way, how much is JHP charging JUST for the Colour Screen and modified HCE Lol !!!!
(Think of the savings there, and the plus that you dont have to deal with JHP's legendary woeful customer service !!!)
Thanks for posting up the parts, part numbers and costs msenj.
I am sure this information is going to help other people out heaps when they give this mod, and other mods a go !!!
Let us know if you need any specific information from the workshop manual.
I am gong to try and source a dual layer DVD burner so as I can try and copy the DVD, and try to get the manual out to people like yourself whom would appreciate the information.
Cheers
The number of trim pieces on my Calais that are marked, worn, have broken clips
Also think of it this way, how much is JHP charging JUST for the Colour Screen and modified HCE Lol !!!!
(Think of the savings there, and the plus that you dont have to deal with JHP's legendary woeful customer service !!!)
Thanks for posting up the parts, part numbers and costs msenj.
I am sure this information is going to help other people out heaps when they give this mod, and other mods a go !!!
Let us know if you need any specific information from the workshop manual.
I am gong to try and source a dual layer DVD burner so as I can try and copy the DVD, and try to get the manual out to people like yourself whom would appreciate the information.
Cheers
by Rayrayrr » Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:40 am
Hey guys,
Been reading through all your information on reprogramming the VE radio and HVAC....
So ive purchased a VE Calais headunit to put in my SV6..
obviously it just needs to be reprogrammed..
so am i safe to say all that needs to be done is to change the VIN in the eeprom??
and also the few resistors added to the HCE?
also just one other quick question, do i need to have a 3m clip or can i just de-solder the eeprom and reprogram it ?? or does it have to be plugged in and powered up in the headunit to read and write properly??
Thanks heaps!
Been reading through all your information on reprogramming the VE radio and HVAC....
So ive purchased a VE Calais headunit to put in my SV6..
obviously it just needs to be reprogrammed..
so am i safe to say all that needs to be done is to change the VIN in the eeprom??
and also the few resistors added to the HCE?
also just one other quick question, do i need to have a 3m clip or can i just de-solder the eeprom and reprogram it ?? or does it have to be plugged in and powered up in the headunit to read and write properly??
Thanks heaps!
by msenj » Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:19 pm
There is now a large collection of parts next to me. I can confirm the correct sensors are all the ones I've listed.
Looking at the diagrams, changing from the 2 pin to the 4 pin sunload sensor should be fairly straight forward too - There is one wire that goes to ground, one that goes to the headlight module (these two are already connected on the 2 pin sensor), and then two that go to the HCE. That's it.
All this remains speculation though until my programmer and clip show up. I've literally got everything else I need now (including an aircon tech on call to discharge and recharge the system when I change the heater box) but no way to program anything yet.
Chomping at the bit here!
One other thing I plan on doing to the headunit before installation is setting up a proper retained accessory power output for my subwoofer... I think I can cheat with this one and just piggyback an SPST reed relay coil between the amplifer IC's 12v supply and ground.
It's ok. I get that all the time.
There aren't many other girls out there that are into cars and electronics as much as I am.
No probalo, Matti. After all, half the fun of modding newish cars is figuring all this stuff out and sharing it so everyone benefits... This is the first car I've owned that's been equal parts hardware and software work to modify.
That's all you need? Email me your address and I'll express post one to you on Monday.
In the meantime, if you could send me the exploded diagram of the LY7/4L60E propshaft and diff, I'd be most grateful... Trying to get the dealer to fix what I believe to be either a worn/misaligned propshaft centre support or rear coupler and they're treating me like I have no idea what I'm talking about because I have boobs.
I told them there is a Holden Techline explaining the exact fault, and a G8 one from the US, which both say the same thing, and they charged me $240 for a TCM reprogram insisting it's a software problem.
At least with the diagram, I can print it out along with the techline, point at the parts, and maybe convey to the service manager somehow (probably with a series of well-aimed electric shocks) that wobbling and misaligned moving parts can't be fixed with software.
Looking at the diagrams, changing from the 2 pin to the 4 pin sunload sensor should be fairly straight forward too - There is one wire that goes to ground, one that goes to the headlight module (these two are already connected on the 2 pin sensor), and then two that go to the HCE. That's it.
All this remains speculation though until my programmer and clip show up. I've literally got everything else I need now (including an aircon tech on call to discharge and recharge the system when I change the heater box) but no way to program anything yet.
Chomping at the bit here!
One other thing I plan on doing to the headunit before installation is setting up a proper retained accessory power output for my subwoofer... I think I can cheat with this one and just piggyback an SPST reed relay coil between the amplifer IC's 12v supply and ground.
MartinM wrote:and I owe an apology for starting one of my posts with "HI Gentlemen" it would seem, sorry bout that msenj
It's ok. I get that all the time.
There aren't many other girls out there that are into cars and electronics as much as I am.
ZerOne wrote:Thanks for posting up the parts, part numbers and costs msenj.
I am sure this information is going to help other people out heaps when they give this mod, and other mods a go !!!
No probalo, Matti. After all, half the fun of modding newish cars is figuring all this stuff out and sharing it so everyone benefits... This is the first car I've owned that's been equal parts hardware and software work to modify.
ZerOne wrote:Let us know if you need any specific information from the workshop manual.
I am gong to try and source a dual layer DVD burner so as I can try and copy the DVD, and try to get the manual out to people like yourself whom would appreciate the information.
That's all you need? Email me your address and I'll express post one to you on Monday.
In the meantime, if you could send me the exploded diagram of the LY7/4L60E propshaft and diff, I'd be most grateful... Trying to get the dealer to fix what I believe to be either a worn/misaligned propshaft centre support or rear coupler and they're treating me like I have no idea what I'm talking about because I have boobs.
I told them there is a Holden Techline explaining the exact fault, and a G8 one from the US, which both say the same thing, and they charged me $240 for a TCM reprogram insisting it's a software problem.
At least with the diagram, I can print it out along with the techline, point at the parts, and maybe convey to the service manager somehow (probably with a series of well-aimed electric shocks) that wobbling and misaligned moving parts can't be fixed with software.
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msenj - Moderator
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by ZerOne » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:18 pm
Let us know if you need any specific information from the workshop manual.
I am gong to try and source a dual layer DVD burner so as I can try and copy the DVD, and try to get the manual out to people like yourself whom would appreciate the information.
That's all you need? Email me your address and I'll express post one to you on Monday.
Lol !!!! Ok, I get the subtle hint Bwahaha....
I have purchased DVD +R DL Burner, and will purchase some blank DL DVDs on the weekend.
In the meantime....
(1) Rubber Coupling to Propeller Shaft Retaining Bolt
(2) Rubber Coupling to Propeller Shaft Yoke Retaining Nut
(3) Propeller Shaft Front Section
(4) Propeller Shaft Rear Section
(5) Rubber Coupling
(6) Centre Bearing Assembly
(7) Propeller Shaft Yoke
AND
(1) Prevailing Torque Pinion Flange Nut
(2) Pinion Flange
(3) Pinion Flange Oil Seal
(4) Pinion Tail Bearing
(5) Right Front Bushing
(6) Pinion Tail Bearing Cup
(7) Differential Housing
(8) Drain/Fill Plugs
(9) Pinion Head Bearing Cup
(10) Collapsible Spacer
(11) Pinion Head Bearing
(12) Pinion Shim
(13) Pinion Gear
(14) Right Axle Shaft Seal
(15) Circlip
(16) Right Shim
(17) Differential Bearing Cup
(18) Differential Bearing
(19) Differential Assembly
(20) Ring Gear
(21) Differential Housing Cover
(22) Differential Retaining Bolt M10 (6x)
(23) Differential Housing Bolt M14 x 135mm (2x)
(24) Differential Housing Bolt M14 x 100mm (2x)
(25) Rear Bushing
(26) Ring Gear Bolts M12 (10x)
(27) Differential Bearing
(28) Differential Bearing Cup
(29) Left Shim
(30) Axle Shaft Seal
(31) Left Front Bushing
The propeller shaft is a two piece tube supported by a sealed for life centre bearing and non-servicable universal joint. Only vehicles fitted with 4-speed transmissions have a splined slip yoke at the front of the propeller shaft which slides directly into the transmission. The splined slip yoke type propeller shaft has a sealed for life centre bearing and non-servicable universal joint. It has a rubber coupling at each end joining the propeller shaft to the transmission and the differential. All propeller shafts are fixed to the rubber couplings by 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are discarded when removed. Torque prevailing nuts have a low friction coating to ensure no damage to the coupling when assembled, correct nuts must be used. The rubber couplings are then mounted to the differential with 3 bolts and the transmission with 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are also discarded when removed. The centre bearing assembly is fixed to the body with 2 bolts. The two-piece propeller shaft is used to transmit power from the transmission to the differential. The centre bearing and rubber couplings are used to support and connect the propeller shaft and decrease vibration, noise and harshness
by ZerOne » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:29 pm
Hi there Rarrayrr.. Welcome to the forums...
The only addition to the above is that the HCE will need the Dual Zone EEPROM dump uploaded to it...
(I will ask MartinM nicely if he could try and upload the HCE EEPROM dumps again)....
This will change the Single Zone HCE to a Dual Zone HCE...
As for the 3m clip, it is definitely possible to desolder the EEPROMs from the Main unit, and the HCE, stick them in a programmer, then resolder.
The tricky part with the main unit is getting good access to the EEPROM. (I was looking at removing the EEPROM, and soldering leads to a socket, so as I could quickly swap EEPROMs in and out for testing)...
The way the PCB sits in the main unit, its difficult to get a soldering iron in the right places to desolder the chip...
Having used the 3M clips makes life sooo much easier... You dont even need to strip the main unit as far as what is in the doco to get to it...
Plus it makes things a little quicker.... (For me anyway, No desoldering, and resoldering, with my soldering skillz Lol !!!!)..
Hope this helps
Hey guys,
Been reading through all your information on reprogramming the VE radio and HVAC....
So ive purchased a VE Calais headunit to put in my SV6..
obviously it just needs to be reprogrammed..
so am i safe to say all that needs to be done is to change the VIN in the eeprom??
and also the few resistors added to the HCE?
also just one other quick question, do i need to have a 3m clip or can i just de-solder the eeprom and reprogram it ?? or does it have to be plugged in and powered up in the headunit to read and write properly??
Thanks heaps!
The only addition to the above is that the HCE will need the Dual Zone EEPROM dump uploaded to it...
(I will ask MartinM nicely if he could try and upload the HCE EEPROM dumps again)....
This will change the Single Zone HCE to a Dual Zone HCE...
As for the 3m clip, it is definitely possible to desolder the EEPROMs from the Main unit, and the HCE, stick them in a programmer, then resolder.
The tricky part with the main unit is getting good access to the EEPROM. (I was looking at removing the EEPROM, and soldering leads to a socket, so as I could quickly swap EEPROMs in and out for testing)...
The way the PCB sits in the main unit, its difficult to get a soldering iron in the right places to desolder the chip...
Having used the 3M clips makes life sooo much easier... You dont even need to strip the main unit as far as what is in the doco to get to it...
Plus it makes things a little quicker.... (For me anyway, No desoldering, and resoldering, with my soldering skillz Lol !!!!)..
Hope this helps