Welcome Anonymous !

Everything you need to modify your ride
 

Brembo / HSV Brake Upgrade for the Holden VE II Commodore

  • The following document describes the tools and parts required to upgrade the standard front brakes on the VE Commodore, to the Brembo Redline Edition front brake setup.
    This document shows upgrading to Brembo Redline Edition Front Brakes, however the methods described are the same for fitting the HSV AP Racing 4 piston front brake setup.
  • The Brembo and HSV AP Racing brake calipers are much thicker and larger than the standard brake calipers.
    So much so, that the most standard Holden alloy wheels WILL NOT clear these calipers.
    The main problem is the thickness of the caliper, and the standard alloy wheel offsets.
    The Brembo / AP Racing calipers stick out about the same amount as the end of the wheel studs.
    Unfortunately, most factory VE alloy wheels (With exception the the VE Series II Redline Wheels) will not clear the caliper, without the use of a wheel spacer.
    Obtaining suitable wheels (and tyres) will add around $1200 to $3000 to the cost of upgrading to Brembo / AP Racing brakes, and this should be kept in mind when considering this upgrade option.
  • Remove the plastic wheel nut covers from the wheel nuts if fitted.
    Using the 21mm socket, and the large torque wrench, loosen the 5 bolts holding the wheel to the hub
    Using the jack, raise the vehicle so as the wheel is off the ground.
    Using the car stands, support the vehicle so as the car will not accidentally fall if the trolley fails.
    Chock the wheels that remain on the ground using bricks, so as to prevent the vehicle from moving forward or backwards, off the trolley / stands.
    Remove the 5 loosened bolts holding the wheel on to the hub.
    Remove the wheel from the hub
  • There are two 12mm bolts that hold the brake caliper on to the brake calliper assembly.

    Once the lower brake caliper bolt has been removed, you will be able to swing the brake calliper upwards.
    This would allow you to change the brake pads without completely removing the brake calliper assembly.
    Because we will be replacing the brake rotor, pads and brake calliper, we will need to remove the brake caliper completely from the calliper bracket.
    To do this, remove the top 12mm bolt holding the brake calliper in place.
    Next, remove the brake calliper, and rest it on a box or stand.
    NOTE: Do not allow the calliper to hang from the brake line, as this may damage the brake line and connectors.

    Finally, remove the brake pads from the brake calliper assembly, by sliding the brake pads outwards from the calliper carrier assembly.
  • To remove the brake calliper carrier mounting assembly, you will need to use a large torque wrench, and an 18mm Socket.
    The following image displays the two bolts that need to be removed in order to remove the brake calliper mounting assembly.
    Please Note: These bolt require a great deal of torque in order to be removed !
    It is recommended that you loosen both bolts before completely removing the upper or lower bolt, as this will aid in supporting the bracket whilst you completely loosen either of these bolts.

    Once the bolts have been removed, simply slipe the brake calliper mounting bracket away from the brake rotor.
    You should be left with something like the following image
  • This step can be rather tricky when attempting for the very first time.
    If the rotor has been on the vehicle for a number of years, then it will most probably have a small amount of surface rust around the rotor and the hub.

    In order to loosen the rotor from the hub, it is recommended to use a small amount of WD40 around the areas where the rotor meets up with the hub.
    This includes around the middle of the rotor, as well as around the bolts used to mount the wheel.

    NOTE: Do not use excessive amount of WD40, as this will require mopping up once the rotor has been removed.
    To further loosen the rotor, use a small hammer, and tap around the hat area on the rotor evenly.
    This step will assist in breaking the surface rust around the bolt areas and the area where the disc rotor hat joins up with the hub assembly.
    IMPORTANT NOTE: If you wish to keep the brake rotor for use or machining later, do not strike the rotors brake surface with the hammer.
    This will mark the surface area, and warp the brake disc, rendering it useless !!!

    Once you have completed the above step (You should strike the brake rotor hat area roughly 20 or 30 times to help loosen the rotor from the hub),
    you can then attempt to prise the disc rotor from the hub assembly using a crow bar, or bar of some description, as seen in the below picture.
    IMPORTANT NOTE: Use the bar to lever the back of the disc rotor hat area, and the area where the brake caliper mounting assembly mates with the hub assembly.
    Do not use the brake rotor surface area when prising the brake rotor from the hub, as this could lead to warping the brake rotor.

    This step will take some time, and you may need to rotate the rotor a quarter of a turn, as well as strike the brake rotor hat with a hammer a couple more times to completely loosen the brake rotor from the hub assembly.

    Finally, your should be able to remove the brake rotor, leaving you with the hub assembly as in the following picture
  • For the next step, it is important that you take your time, and be very careful NOT to get brake fluid on any of the vehicles paintwork.
    Brake fluid is highly corrosive to paintwork, and will destroy any paintwork it comes in contact with.
    As such, take great care not to allow the brake fluid to come in contact with the vehicle, and try to keep your fingers / hands clean of any brake fluid when working on or around the vehicle.

    To try and prevent as much brake fluid from leaking when the brake hose is disconnected, it is recommended that you fit a brake line clamp to the brake hose, before attempting to loosen the brake line bolt.
    Next, place a plastic container directly below the brake hose connector on the existing brake calliper.
    (I have used an old plastic milk container for this).
    This will be used to catch the brake fluid that will leak from the brake hose connector when you begin removing the brake line bolt.
    Next, Remove the brake line bolt, which is located at the bottom back of the factory brake calliper.
    Be sure to keep the brake calliper bolt in a safe place, as these are impossibly to replace !
    Also be careful not to lose the copper washers used on both sides of the brake line connector and brake line bolt.
    These again, are impossible to replace.
    Once the brake line has been disconnected from the brake calliper, place the open end of the brake line in to your plastic container, to prevent any brake fluid from accidentally making contact with your paintwork.

    Finally, remove the existing brake calliper from the vehicle.
  • You are now past the halfway point, and fortunately things do get easier from this point onwards.

    OPTIONAL: If you wish to clean the hub assembly, now would be the perfect time to do so.

    To fit the new rotor to the hub, simply align the new brake rotor with the wheel mounting bolts, and slide the rotor in to place.
    If you are using direction rotors (I.E. Slotted), please ensure that you are using the right brake rotor for the correct side of the car.
    For Right Hand Drive Vehicles (Australia, Japan, England), the right rotor should be fitted to the drivers side wheels.
    A rotor marked for the left hand side of the car should be mounted to the passenger side of the vehicle.

    For Left Hand Drive Vehicles (America, Canada) the right rotor should be fitted to the passenger side of the vehicle.
    A rotor marked for the left hand side of the car should be mounted to the drivers side of the vehicle.

    Once the new brake rotor has been fitted, you should use 2 wheel nuts to hold the rotor in place, whilst adding the new calliper to the wheel hub.

    Finally, the new rotor should be cleaned using the brake clean spray, and a clean cloth.
    Ensure that you spray the brake clean on the brake rotor area that will come in contact with the brake pads.
    This area should be clean of finger prints, stickers, and any grease, dirt or grime, to help assist the brake bedding in process.
    Both sides of the rotor (The front and back) sides will require cleaning for optimal brake bedding in.
  • It is recommended that before you fit the new Brembo / AP Racing callipers, you first prepare them to be fitted to the vehicle / wheel hub.
    This includes removing the brake pads, brake pad holder, and pushing the brake pistons back to aid in fitting the new pads later.

    Conducting these steps whilst the new rotor is off the vehicle makes fitting the new callipers much easier later on.
    To remove the brake pads from the Brembo / AP Racing Calliper,
    1) Locate the two brake pad mounting pins on the brake calliper.
    Using a suitable punch, (Or a small crappy screwdriver) and a hammer, push the brake pad mounting pin outward from the brake calliper.
    Once you have removed the first brake pad mounting pin, the brake pad retaining clip should be easily removed from the brake calliper.
    Next, remove the second brake pad retaining pin using the same method as outlined above.
    Once you have removed both brake pad retaining pins, you should now be able to remove the brake pads from the calliper, using long nose pliers, or some other suitable tool.
    Finally, you should be left with something like the following.
    With the brake pads removed, you should be able to compress the brake pad piston back inside of the brake calliper.
    (If the brake calliper is not connected to the vehicles brake lines, you should be able to do this by hand).
    Ensure that you compress all four pistons, before you proceed to the next step.
  • The next step involves fitting the new Brembo / AP Racing brake calliper to the hub.
    Simply slide the new Brembo / AP Racing calliper over the new rotor in to place, and fit one of the two 18mm Bolts.
    At this point, simply fit one of the bolts, and give the bolt one or two turns, so as the new brake calliper is loosely held in to place.

    Next, fit the second 18mm Bolt to the brake calliper.
    Fitting the two bolts will prevent the new brake calliper from pivoting around, and will further aid you when tightening the two 18mm bolts.

    Finally Tighten the two 18mm Bolts using the 18mm socket, and the torque wrench.
    These bolts should be tightened to roughly the same torque that was used to originally remove the bolts.

    Once this has been completed, you can now fit the brake lines to the new brake calliper.
    Before you connect the brake line, ensure that the brake line bolt is clean from any contaminants, and that the copper washers are fitted to both sides of the brake line coupling.

    Once completed, you should be left with something that closely resembles the following picture.
  • Luckily with Brembo and AP Racing Callipers, adding and changing brake pads is very very easy.

    Simply slide the brake pad in to place, noting the brake pad direction.
    NOTE : The brake pads can only be inserted when they are fitting in the correct direction.
    If you are having problems inserting the brake pad, try using the same pad on the other side of the brake calliper.

    Once the brake pad has been inserted in to the brake calliper, align the brake pad with the pad mounting pin holes, to ensure that when you fit the pad mounting pins, that they will freely move through the brake pad mounting holes.

    Next, fit the second brake pad to the brake calliper, again ensuring that the brake pad is aligned with the pad mounting pin holes.

    Next, fit one of the brake pad mounting pins, by pushing it through the back of the brake calliper, through the brake pad mounting holes, and through to the outer pad mounting pin hole on the brake calliper.

    Using a hammer, tap the pad mounting pin in to place, being careful not to damage the brake calliper, or the rest of the car !
    Next, fit one side of the brake pad retainer, by sliding one side of the retainer underneath the brake pad mounting pin.
    Finally, fit the second brake pad mounting pin, by manoeuvring the pin through the calliper and the first brake pad.
    Next, push down on the brake pad retainer, and manoeuvre the pad mounting pin over the top of the brake pad retainer.
    Finally, manoeuvre the pin through the second brake pad, and in to the brake calliper pad mounting pin hole.
    Carefully use a hammer to push the pin in to place.
  • Once the brake calliper and brake pads have been fitted, you will need to bleed the brake lines.
    This will remove the air that is now located in both the brake calliper, and the brake hose.

    Because the brake calliper pistons have also been moved back inside the calliper to fit the pads, you will also need to do the following,
    1) Bleed the brake lines for the Callipers two inner pistons, using the inner bleed valve to remove any air in the brake hose, and the brake calliper.
    2) Bleed the brake lines for the callipers tow outer pistons, using the outer bleed valve to remove any air from the brake calliper.
    3) Once the lines have been bled, you will need to compress the brake pistons so as the brake pads are sitting flush against the brake rotors.
    4) You will need to bleed the inner and outer brake line bleeder valves a second time to remove any air present when the brake pistons were compressed.

    To do this,
    1) Remove the brake hose clamp that was fitted previously.

    Using a Single Person Brake Bleeding Kit
    2) Fit the brake bleed kit hose to the inner brake calliper bleed valve, and loosen the valve by a quarter of a turn using a 10mm open ended spanner.
    3) Pump the brake pedal three or four times, until you feel resistance in the brake pedal travel.
    4) Tighten the brake valve bleed nipple, and carefully disconnect the brake bleed hose from the nipple.
    (Ensure that you do not spill any brake fluid on the vehicle, or any other painted areas).
    5) Clean the brake bleed nipple and the area around the brake bleed nipple to ensure that there is no residual brake fluid that may damage the pain work on the calliper.
    6) Empty the brake bleed kit bottle of brake fluid.
    7) Check the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay, and ensure that there is sufficient brake fluid available.
    8) Fit the brake bleed kit hose to the second brake fluid bleed nipple on the brake calliper.
    9) Pump the brake pedal three or four times, until you feel resistance in the brake pedal travel.
    10) Tighten the brake valve bleed nipple, and carefully disconnect the brake bleed hose from the nipple.
    (Ensure that you do not spill any brake fluid on the vehicle, or any other painted areas).
    11) Clean the brake bleed nipple and the area around the brake bleed nipple to ensure that there is no residual brake fluid that may damage the pain work on the calliper.
    12) Empty the brake bleed kit bottle of brake fluid.
    13) Check the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay, and ensure that there is sufficient brake fluid available.
    14) Next, pump the brake pedal a couple of times to ensure that the brake pads are pushed up against the brake rotor.
    15 Bleed the Inner and outer brake bleed nipples a second time to ensure that there is no air left in the brake system.

    Optional method if not using a single person brake bleeder kit
    If you are not using a single person brake line bleeder kit, then you will require a second person to depress the brake pedal.
    Before loosening the brake line bleeder nipple, ask a second person to put some pressure on the brake pedal.
    Alert the second person that the brake pedal will travel to the floor, and that they should not release pressure on the brake pedal.
    Next, Loosen the brake line bleeder nipple 1/4 of a turn using the 10mm open ended spanner.
    The brake pedal will now travel completely to the floor, and the brake fluid will flow out from the brake bleeder nipple.
    Once the brake pedal has travelled to the floor, tighten the brake line bleeder nipple, and release the brake pedal.
    Continue the above steps a further two times, keeping an eye on the brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir.
  • Once you are completely satisfied that the brake lines have no air in them, and that all the bolts have been tightened sufficiently, then you will be able to fit the wheel,
    and continue changing the brake pads and rotor for the other side of the vehicle.

    Before fitting the wheel, ou should check the following,
    1) That all bolts have been tightened to their correct torque.
    2) That the brake bleed nipple has been tightened to prevent brake fluid from escaping.
    3) That any excessive brake fluid is cleaned from the brake parts such as rotor, caliper, and hub assembly.
    4) That the brake rotor is clean from any fluids, dirt, grease, or fingerprints.
    5) That the brake caliper sufficiently holds the brake rotor when the brake pedal is depressed.
    6) That the brake pedal travel is not excessive, and that the brake pedal does not feel spongy or abnormal.

    NOTE:When chaning brake pads and rotors, ensure that you change both sides before bedding in the brake system.
    Bedding in the brake system allows the surface of the brake pad to properly mate with the surface of the brake rotor.
    A proper bedding in proceedure allows the brake pad material to properly bond with the brake rotor, by applying the brakes at speed,
    allowing the brake pads to sufficiently heat up, and bond to the heated and clean brake rotor.
    At no time whilst bedding in the brake system should the vehicle be completely stopped suddenly, or harshly.
    Completely stopping the vehicle whilst bedding in the brake system will cause a buildup of brake pad material on the brake rotor, at the place where the brake pad and rotor meet, when stopped.
    The idea is to allow the brake pad to evenly distribute its material over the brake rotor, by using a consistant braking force, and allowing the rotor to continuosly turn.

    Bedding In Proceedure
    To bed in your new brake pads and rotors.
    1) Carefully and slowly drive to a safe area where you can apply your brakes without disrupting traffic flow. At this time, do not brake excessively, or apply the brakes at speed.
    2) Once it is safe to do so, accelerate the vehicle to around 50~60Km/Hr, and gently apply the brakes, slowing the vehicle to around 30Km/Hr.
    3) Repeat Proceedure 2 a couple of times to allow the brake pads and rotor to heat up.
    4) Once it is safe to do so, accelerate the vehicle to around 50~60Km/Hr, and apply the brakes vigerously, slowing the vehicle to around 10Km/Hr.
    5) Repeat Proceedure 4 a couple of times to allow the brake pads material to bond with the rotor.
    6) Slowly and Carefully drive the vehicle, allowing the brake pads and rotor to cool. Avoid high speed and harsh stopping proceedures until the brakes have sufficiently cooled.
    7) Avoid harsh stops for the next 100Kms or so, to allow the brake pads and rotors to properly bed in.
cron
  • View new posts
  • View unanswered posts
  • Who is online
  • Statistics
  • In total there are 40 users online :: 1 registered, 0 hidden and 39 guests (based on users active over the past 5 minutes)
  • Most users ever online was 833 on Mon May 04, 2020 12:03 pm
  • Registered users: Bing [Bot]
  • Total posts 6781
  • Total topics 673
  • Total members 72021
  • Our newest member adiwuqufod